When it comes to Skincare Products: What Does Really Work?

The other day a patient asked me what really works to use on the skin. There are so many products on the market and all of them claim to work. This is not an easy question to answer, because if a topical agent has undergone stringent testing to prove efficacy, the FDA will classify it as a drug and it can’t be sold. So there really has to be 2 different ways of looking at beauty products: those that do have clinical trials that show efficacy and those that consumers have consistently determined that a product works.

So what are the most common things that actually work?

Retinol (vitamin A)—initially introduced as Retin-A®, which was available only as a prescription, there are now many products that contain Retinol that improves the appearance of sun-damaged skin, helping with fine lines, changes in pigment and many other benefits.

Vitamin C—shown to be effective in protecting the skin from free radicals and sun damage. Available in many forms but be sure that what you buy is bright yellow and remains yellow throughout use. If it turns color it is no longer effective. You can see our Serum C product page for further information.

Vitamin K—shown to decrease the appearance of bruises and dark circles. There are a number of forms so be sure the ingredient you buy is phytonadione.

Glycolic acid—lots of data supporting its ability to remove dead skin cells and make the skin look fresher

Salicylic acid—removes blackheads and helps clear and prevent acne.

When it comes to lines that contain antioxidants there are few clinical trials so the dependence on consumer opinion becomes important and La Peau from Switzerland is one of the best. Jan Marini products also live up to their marketing and so does products that carry Fred Brandt’s name.

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The FDA and Filling Materials – What to Have in Mind?

The Food and Drug Administration has issued a warning regarding the side-effects of filling materials injected into the face. Although it is certainly true that every medical procedure has the potential for side-effects including fillers, one must look at the facts behind the issue.

Filling Materials: Some facts

The most serious side-effect listed is blindness, which is NOT a side-effect of fillers per se. It is a side-effect of injecting any material in the area of the frown lines and has been documented in fewer than a couple of dozen patients in over 50 years of injections into this area from fillers to fat to cortisone etc.

It is certainly possible to inject into a small blood vessels or against a blood vessel in the face and that may eventuate in an area of dead skin and a scar. I have had this side effect occur 3 times in the last 30 years I have been injecting and only once did it leave a scar.

The issue of Training

This entire issue brings to the fore another point and that is that there are too many inexperienced and untrained people injecting these substances some of whom are not even medical professionals. Every patient should check the credentials of the doctor they are contemplating getting these injections. The best case scenario is that he is a board certified dermatologist or plastic surgeon with a great deal of experience with injectables. Occasionally, a nurse injector who has been well trained and with a lot of experience can be well qualified.

Watch out for those who are injecting fillers and are not well trained, e.g. taking a weekend course to “learn” how to perform the procedure. It is very true in this situation for the buyer to really beware.

If you or your cosmetic staff want to be trained by Dr. Melvin Elson, click here and contact us today!

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May 22nd – Friday is not Fry Day

This coming Friday the American Academy of Dermatology and the Skin Cancer Foundation have dedicated this day, May 22, as a day to remember not to fry your skin in the sun or in tanning beds.

Preventing Skin Cancer

Skin cancer is an epidemic in this country and this day should prompt you to think and do a few things for your skin and overall health:

1. Use a sunscreen every morning with SPF 15 or 30
2. Stay out of tanning beds
3. When exercising or at the beach remember sunscreens are not permanent and wash off easily and should be reapplied at least every hour
4. Remember to apply sunscreen to your children—their skin is even more sensitive than yours
5. Wear sunglasses with an A and B block because the sun also causes cataracts

Other tips

The most deadly form of skin cancer is malignant melanoma and great strides are being made in the treatment of this disease; however, still of the 55,000 who get this 10,000 will die. Even though the most common form of skin cancer, basal cell carcinoma, will not kill you, it can be very disfiguring and devastating. The other name for this cancer is “rodent ulcer” for good reason. In addition, the sun is the primary cause of the appearance of aging and sunscreen does help to keep this from happening as well.

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Treatments for the Double Chin

I have been asked a number of times about treatment for double chin other than surgical intervention or liposuction and there are some available. Ultherapy, utilizing radio waves, was recently approved by the FDA and does a pretty good job.

Other Double Chin Treatments

Thermage, which has been around longer, uses a different wavelength and also works, but more slowly. The most recent FDA approval for this condition is called ATX101, which is an injection of an enzyme that destroys the fat and produces a little inflammation so that the skin might tighten. It takes a few treatments and is somewhat uncomfortable.

All of these methods are rather expensive with costs over $1000 and don’t forget if the skin is very loose it will not go up and give you a normal line. All these things should be considered and discussed with your dermatologist or plastic surgeon.

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Common Errors in your Skincare

1. Using soap on your face—soap is alkaline and changes the acid/base balance of the skin and dries it out. Use a cleanser or a beauty bar, such as Cetaphil or Neutrogena
2. Using RetinA in the morning—always use it at night. The sun deactivates the molecule and makes it less effective
3. Using sunscreen only while on vacation—use sunscreen with SPF 30 every morning—the sun is always there
4. It is ok to use vitamin C cream that is brown— No it is not. Once the cream is no longer yellow, it is ineffective
5. Patients with rosacea using Retin A—they should not because Rosacea is not a form of acne and the Retin A or retinol may irritate the sensitive skin
6. It does not matter where skincare products are stored— Yes it does. Keep them in a dry cool place and don’t leave them uncovered in the bathroom. The lights there can affect its efficacy.
7. Don’t take hot showers because they remove oil from the skin. The skin has oil only on the face, scalp and upper torso. There is none on the legs, arms etc.
8. Cortisone cream over the counter is always safe. NO Do not use it on babies or young children and do not apply to the groin area as it might thin the skin
9. There are products to apply to hair and nails to increase the strength. NO hair and nails are not alive, but products of the skin and cannot be affected by applying anything
10. If I have herpes, I cannot transmit the virus when the blisters are not present. Yes you can
11. Ringworm is contagious. Most of the time it is not

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Inexpensive and Easy tips for a Beautiful Skin

1. If you like bar cleansers opt for Dove, Cetaphil, Neutrogena or CeraVe
2. Apply cool water to your face and cover with Vaseline for at least 30 minutes
3. After a bath or shower, pat dry, leave a little moisture and apply Vaseline
4. Drink 8 glasses of water a day
5. Use sunscreen every morning
6. Wear sunglasses outside that block UVB and UVA
7. Apply insect repellant to your clothing, not your skin
8. Apply Retinol at bedtime—RoC or Neutrogena—you don’t have to use RetinA®
9. Don’t smoke anything
10. Drink red wine in moderation
11. Keep a steady weight

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A New Service

I have had some requests to travel to the patient’s house to consult and perform injections of Botox and filling material. Due to the fact that many of the patients have very busy schedules and cannot find the time to come to the office, I have decided to do this.

If you would like me to come to your house or office and consult with you I would be glad to do so. Contact me via email, on this website, call me at 615-441-5227. There is no charge for travel and the only requirement is that you be located within 30 miles of downtown Nashville.

Consultation fee is $150, botulinum toxin and fillers depend on the areas that you want to treat. In the event you simply want a consultation as to how to treat your skin and keep it healthy and beautiful, that is also possible with just the consultation fee. It is also possible and beneficial to check your skin for skin cancer if you have not had that done.

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